Green Man Review was where this was originally posted.
I am not sure I will ever manage to travel to Istanbul, although it’s one of the cities on my fantasy Grand Tour (the others are Cairo, Alexandria, Damascus, Aleppo and Izmir). I also like to read fiction (especially mysteries) and non-fiction (especially histories) set in Istanbul. So I am always glad to review travel books that focus on Istanbul.
I’ve reviewed quite a few travel books and I have to admit I’ve never before seen one organized quite the way this one is. The authors, both of whom have traveled extensively in the Middle East, present their material in the guise of a series of twelve walking tours. While they’ve included a brief overview of the city’s history in the front of the book, they’ve incorporated most of their historical background into the walking tours, as well.
Because so much of the action in the Istanbul fiction I’ve read has taken place in the European quarter historically known as Galata and Pera (now called Karakoy and Beyoglu), I thought I would give you a sense of the walking tour approach by focusing on this one. Like most of the other walking tours, this section opens with a map showing the area’s major thoroughfares and other attractions. The narrative begins with a quote from Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, wife of the British Ambassador in the early eighteenth century and a prolific and well-regarded observer of life in the Ottoman capital during that period.
The writing quickly transitions to an approach that literally places the reader in the location, thus: ‘With your back to the bustle of Taksim Square look at the octagonal building on the right of Istiklal Cad. which has given its name to the square: this is the Taksim (water distribution centre).’ I’ve put the name in bold face following the convention observed by the authors. This is one strategy they use to make the task of reading while walking a bit easier. (Mind you, I think I would be more likely to read while sitting in my hotel room or at a sidewalk café, otherwise I might step in front of a tram!)
The tour moves from Taksim Square at the northeast corner of the district down the Istiklal Caddesi to its terminus at the famous Pera Palas Hotel, across from the Galata Mevlevi Tekke, a lodge frequented by a sect of dervishes. A smallish photo on the next page shows a few contemporary dervishes engaged in their signature whirl; the surrounding text gives a brief explanation of both the sect and the movement. But the real attraction in this part of town is the massive Galata Tower, built in 1348 and used both for defense and fire control (it provides a wonderful view of the city). The walk ends at the Galata Bridge, which spans the Golden Horn. The final attraction on this tour is the Rustem Pasha Han, one of the old caravan stops, designed by the famous Ottoman architect Sinan and built in the sixteenth century.
Istanbul: A Traveller’s Guide is a neat little paperback, just about the right size to fit in a small backpack or a large pocket. It has a substantial glued binding (although a coil binding would have made it easier to use the book) and sturdy royal blue covers. Useful information includes a list of hotels and restaurants with phone numbers and URLs; another list of major attractions with open hours (although I would probably check those since they are always subject to change); a brief but decent glossary and an index. I could easily imagine buying this as a gift for someone planning or even dreaming about a trip to Istanbul!
(Garnet Publishing, 2005)
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